30th January - city tour in Hanoi

30th January - city tour in Hanoi

Ho Chi Minh mausoleum

We were picked up at 8.30am and driven to the large complex which houses Ho Chi Minh's mausoleum.  Although there is a lot of traffic, it doesn't seem as frenetic as Saigon and we all agreed that the city has a much nicer atmosphere to it.  Certainly the part we're in (the edge of the old quarter) has not had the heart and soul ripped out of it and been replaced with modern skyscrapers.  The houses are tall and skinny and wedged tightly together usually with some sort of family business on the ground floor.  There are also trees and parks everywhere so the city feels green and vibrant.

We parked up and had to walk quite a long way around taped off areas to get to the end of a small queue.  There were severe looking suited officials everywhere pointing us in the right direction.  After walking along corridors and round corners of garden and parkland we eventually came out in a big open square with the mausoleum on one side.  It's a dark forbidding granite monument apparently modelled on Lenin's mausoleum in Moscow.  It was drizzling by now so that some of the white uniformed soldiers actually had on huge white ponchos to protect them from the rain.  They looked just ridiculous goose stepping in them.  As

Former French Governor's House

we got closer to the mausoleum, the numbers of guards increased greatly and I was told by a flick of a head and a sneer to take my hands out of my pockets - no words were exchanged. I'd never seen a dead body before so was a bit apprehensive, but didn't need to be.  Kim was right - the great old man looked like a wax work lying in his open casket enclosed behind a glass case on a raised platform and guarded by 4 bored looking soldiers.  We were in and out in no time at all and met our guide the other side.  He took us to the front of the mausoleum where we could take some photos and watch the guards periodically bring huge orange and red flower wreaths to the entrance, which were sent as marks of respect by visiting groups.

After that we continued our walk in the complex and passed by the old French Governors house (very grand) which Ho Chi Minh refused to live in.  Instead he lived very simply and spent a lot of time in an old electrician's very basic cottage before being moved across a small ornamental lake to a stilted house to avoid floods and then eventually to his final house where he died, which had a bomb shelter to protect him from American bombing.

One Pillar Pagoda

We then moved on to the one pillar pagoda, which had an amazing Buddha inside lit up by a holograph.  As the name suggests, it is supported by a single concrete pillar (originally wood) and has a brick and stone staircase up one side.  It sits in a concrete pool with some brightly coloured flags around it.

A shopping opportunity was next as we visited a lacquer workshop where we learnt that lacquer is resin tapped from a tree.  The workshop had artists who did paintings plus ladies who arranged broken eggshells and mother of pearl onto tracings before they were all lacquered.  Needless to say some purchases were made!

Our last stop before lunch was the Museum of Ethnology where we saw some kids outside doing some jumping between moving bamboo poles which looked hazardous to say the least and was apparently very difficult.  This was a fascinating museum as it showcased the 53 different ethnic tribes living in Vietnam and had exhibits of their intricately decorated, very colourful and beautiful clothes as well as models of their houses and examples of their everyday possessions such as fishing traps and cooking pots.  It was incredibly well done and just a shame that we weren't allowed to take photos.

The 1st Gateway

We then got back into the van and were driven to the Temple of Literature, which is the largest and most important temple complex in Hanoi.  It was founded in 1070 and dedicated to Confucius.  We entered via the southern gate through an impressive gateway adorned with 15th century dragons.  This took us to a large courtyard with a tree lined path down the centre and lovely symmetrical gardens, including 2 lotus flower pools, either side of it.  We went through another pavilion which looked out on the 2nd courtyard which had Chinese characters in flowers set in plastic looking lotus flower pots.  We then arrived at the Van Khue Gac pavilion which was built in 1805 and dedicated to the Constellation of Literature.

The gateway leading to the courtyard of the Stelae

Beyond lies the courtyard of the Stelae at the centre of which is a rectangular pond.  Either side are cloisters housing the 82 stelae carried on the backs of stone tortoises which list the names of 1306 successful examination scholars.  The oldest dates back to1442 and the most recent 1779.  Passing the exam was not easy - typically perhaps only 8 would pass out of 3000 candidates and the successful scholars would go on to become mandarins.  Fittingly perhaps, there happened to be a huge group of young people in black scholastic gowns and hats receiving certificates in this very courtyard.  We then passed through the Great Success Gate to another courtyard with huge shallow sinks housing bonsai gardens behind which were 2 ugly buildings dating from the 1950's housing shops and refreshment stalls. Looking north is the Dai Bai Duong or Great House of Ceremonies which was built in the 19th century but built to resemble a much older style.  Inside is an alter on which a statue of Confucius and his closest disciples sit.

Confucius and a disciple.....

After a very nice lunch we went to the Opera house to admire it from the outside.  It was built by the French and is very European in style.  Apparently it's got an amazing interior, but we were not allowed to go in and have a peek.

Doing our impression of being in an old folks home...rather too well?

Next stop was by the lake near our hotel where we had an hour's ride in individual rickshaws pedalled very slowly  and sedately around the old quarter.  Kim and I did our best to get some shots reflecting the hustle and bustle of life in this crammed, lively and fascinating area but for some unknown reason most of our photos were blurred.  I'm guessing that although we were going slowly, everyone else was just tearing past us.  We both want a photo of someone on a motorbike with a huge kumquat tree on their back, but haven't managed it yet.  We think we might return there and just people watch and snap later.

Part of the water puppet show

We were dropped off at the water puppet theatre as were booked for the later afternoon show.  It was absolutely wonderful.  The live band were on a raised platform to the left of the stage which was basically a pool about 2 feet deep with a curtained area behind from which the puppets emerged.  The puppets are wooden and we think come out on poles and must have strings we couldn't see to make different parts of them move.  We were treated to various short scenes including fishing, rice planting, dancing and various mystical animals.  I couldn't believe it when an hour had passed as it really was mesmerising and I could have happily sat through the entire show again.

After what had been a very interesting and action packed day, we retired to the roof terrace bar for a cocktail or two and then had dinner in a restaurant close to the hote

Below are some photos of Vietnamese street life.....